Surfing blog #5 the first time I stood up on a wave
The First Time I Stood Up on a Wave
Puerto Rico: A Vacation That Changed Everything
It happened in Puerto Rico, on a family vacation. The sun was bright, the water warm, and the waves rolling in with that perfect mix of power and playfulness. I had tried surfing before, when I was a kid in California, but never with success. This time, I was determined to give it another shot.
The waves we were riding weren’t the clean, unbroken “green waves” that surfers dream about. They were whitewater waves—the foamy aftermath of a breaking swell. Beginners often start here, pushed into the surf by instructors, learning to balance in the chaos. It wasn’t glamorous, but it was real.
Awkward Beginnings
When I finally stood up, it wasn’t graceful. My feet were planted far too wide, like I was trying to straddle the board. My stance was completely perpendicular, facing sideways instead of angled forward. My butt was pushed out, my chest leaning over, and my eyes locked on the nose of the board instead of the horizon.
It was awkward, clumsy, and technically all wrong. But it didn’t matter. I was standing. I was riding a wave. For the first time in my life, I felt the board carry me forward, propelled by the ocean’s energy.
Elation in the Whitewater
The moment was pure elation. I didn’t care that it was whitewater, not a green wave. I didn’t care that my form was laughable. I was up, balanced, and moving. It was amazing.
That single ride lit a fire in me. I was so excited that I rented a surfboard every day for the rest of the vacation. Each morning, I carried the board down to the beach, eager to paddle out, eager to try again.
Sharing the Waves With My Daughter
Most of my time in the water wasn’t spent chasing my own rides. It was spent pushing my daughter into waves, helping her feel the thrill of surfing for herself. I would steady her board, give her a push, and cheer as she tried to stand.
When she finally did—when she actually stood up on a whitewater wave—I couldn’t contain myself. I raised my arms in victory, jumped up and down in the stomach‑high water, and shouted after her: “That was amazing!”
It was one of those moments you never forget. The joy wasn’t just mine—it was ours. Surfing became a shared adventure, a bond forged in saltwater and sunlight.
The Spark of a New Obsession
That trip changed everything. I loved the feeling of standing up, but even more, I loved the time it created with my daughter. Surfing became our shared language, our shared pursuit.
We were both enthralled. The ocean had hooked us, not with perfection, but with possibility. Every wave was a chance, every fall a lesson, every stand‑up a victory.
Lessons From That First Stand
Looking back, that first stand taught me more than technique. It taught me:
• Joy in Imperfection: My stance was awkward, but the thrill was real. Progress doesn’t require perfection.
• Shared Triumphs Matter Most: Watching my daughter succeed was even more exhilarating than my own ride.
• Persistence Pays Off: Renting a board every day wasn’t about mastery—it was about commitment.
• Surfing Is Connection: The ocean connected me to my daughter, to myself, and to something larger than both.
Why It Still Matters
Five years later, I’ve stood up on countless waves. My stance has improved, my timing refined, my paddling more efficient. But nothing compares to that first awkward, glorious stand in Puerto Rico.
It wasn’t about skill. It was about discovery. It was about realizing that surfing was possible, that the dream I had carried since childhood could finally be lived.
And it was about family. That trip gave me memories with my daughter that continue to grow. Surfing became our shared passion, our shared adventure, our shared joy.
Final Thoughts
The first time I stood up on a wave wasn’t perfect. It wasn’t pretty. But it was unforgettable. It was the moment surfing became part of my life, part of my relationship with my daughter, part of my journey.
I loved that trip, and I love all the time it generated in the future with my daughter. Together, we became enthralled with surfing. Together, we discovered that the ocean doesn’t demand perfection—it simply invites you to try.
And sometimes, trying is enough to change everything