Surfing Blog #1
Riding the Late Wave: My Journey Into Surfing Started at 54
Growing Up in California: Ocean Kid, Not a Surfer
I lived in the water, but never on the board.
I grew up in Northern California with my brother and parents. We had a place on the beach in Monterey Bay, a community called Pajaro Dunes. We spent a great deal of time there as a family, and my brother and I were in the ocean constantly—playing in the waves, body surfing, and exploring the beach and dunes. The Pacific Ocean was our playground, vast and alive, shaping so many of our childhood memories.
Like so many kids of that era, we pretended to be surfers, but never really were. We’d grab boogie boards or even just ride waves with our bodies, imagining ourselves as the surfers we admired from the shore.
Yet despite all that time in the water, I never truly surfed. But I thought to myself, maybe someday. That someday never came in my youth.
Fast Forward: A New Beginning in New England
At 54, I finally said yes.
Life carried me east, to Massachusetts and New Hampshire. The Atlantic is colder, moodier, and less forgiving than California’s coast. But it became the stage for my late‑life leap into surfing.
People often ask me: Why surfing? Why at this age? The answer is layered. Part of it is nostalgia—surfing was always the thing I didn’t do, the one ocean activity that eluded me. Another part is curiosity. I wanted to know what it felt like to ride a wave, to be carried by the ocean instead of just swimming in it. And perhaps the biggest reason: I wanted to challenge myself.
There’s something humbling about starting from scratch in midlife. You’re not as flexible, not as fearless, and not as quick to recover from a fall. But you are wiser. You understand patience. You know that progress is rarely linear. And you appreciate the small victories in a way that younger versions of yourself might overlook. Surfing became my way of reconnecting with the ocean, with my body, and with the idea that growth doesn’t stop at any age.
First Paddle Out: Humbling and Hooking
Saltwater swallowed, knees scraped, doubts whispered.
My first time paddling out was nothing short of humbling. The Atlantic felt colder than I imagined, and the waves seemed bigger once I was in them. I had the wrong board, the wrong wetsuit, and the wrong expectations.
I flailed through the whitewater, arms aching, lungs burning, and balance nowhere to be found. Each attempt to stand ended in a fall—sometimes spectacular, sometimes just clumsy. I laughed at myself between coughs of saltwater, realizing I looked more like a seal rolling in the surf than a surfer.
But then came one small wave. I stood up—just for a second—and felt the rush of being carried forward by the ocean. That fleeting moment was enough. Surfing isn’t addictive because it’s easy; it’s addictive because it’s hard. Every wave is different, every attempt is a lesson, and every success feels like a triumph.
Surfing in New England: Rugged Beauty
It’s not tropical, but it’s real.
Surfing in Massachusetts and New Hampshire is a world away from California. The water is icy, even in summer, and the coastline is rugged—rocky beaches, lighthouses in the distance, and winds that cut through wetsuits.
There’s a camaraderie among surfers here. We nod to each other in thick neoprene, laugh about frozen fingers, and swap stories about chasing waves in conditions most people wouldn’t dare. It’s not glamorous, but there’s pride in braving the cold together.
Surfing here requires preparation and grit, but it offers a raw, authentic connection to the ocean. It reminds me that adventure doesn’t have to be far away or tropical—it can be right in your backyard, if you’re willing to embrace discomfort and see beauty in the challenge.
Challenges of Learning at 54
Resilience matters more than perfection.
My body doesn’t bounce back like it used to. Balance is harder, recovery slower. Fear creeps in when waves rise. But surfing has taught me patience, persistence, and respect for limits.
I’ve had to approach surfing methodically. Stretching before sessions. Building strength through swimming and going to the gym. Practicing balance on a balance board. And most importantly, listening to my body. Progress is slower, but it’s steady.
The mental challenges are just as real. Doubt whispers when I fall repeatedly. Fear lingers when the waves get big. But surfing has become a practice in resilience. Every time I paddle back out after a failed attempt at standing up or even just catching a wave, I remind myself that persistence matters more than perfection.
What This Blog Will Cover
Stories, lessons, and reflections from the lineup.
• Personal tales of falls and victories
• Practical tips on boards, wetsuits, and etiquette
• Reflections on growth and resilience
• Life lessons beyond the waves
Why Share This Journey?
Because stories connect us.
Maybe you’ve shelved a dream for years. Maybe your “surfboard” is something else entirely. I want to show it’s never too late to begin. The ocean doesn’t care how old you are—it simply invites you to try again.
Surfing has become my metaphor for life: unpredictable, challenging, and beautiful. And if my story inspires even one person to chase their own wave, then it’s worth telling.
Looking Ahead
More falls, more victories, more lessons.
As I continue this journey, I know there will be more failed attempts, more frustrations, and more lessons. But there will also be more victories—small moments of joy that make it all worthwhile.
This blog will grow alongside my surfing. I’ll share milestones, setbacks, and insights. I’ll take you with me to the beaches of Massachusetts and New Hampshire, and maybe beyond. Together, we’ll explore what it means to be a beginner, to embrace the process, and to find freedom in the waves.
Final Thoughts
Board waxed, wetsuit zipped, heart open.
Starting to surf at 54 has been one of the most humbling and rewarding experiences of my life. It’s not about becoming the best surfer in the lineup. It’s about showing up, paddling out, and learning something new every time.
This blog is my invitation to you: come experience a second chance at life and ride the late wave with me. Whether you’re curious about surfing, inspired by the idea of starting fresh, or simply looking for stories that celebrate resilience and joy, you’ll find them here.
The ocean has always been part of my life. Surfing is my way of deepening that connection, of honoring the dream I carried for decades, and of proving to myself that it’s never too late to begin.
So here we go—board waxed, wetsuit zipped, heart open. Let’s paddle out together.